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2016-07-06 13:14 posted in Knife & Cutter
All of the knives need proper care if you want them to perform to their full potential.
Modern knife steel is very high quality material, but all metal will corrode through time. Occasionally oil the joints and springs of a pocket knife with a drop or two of oil. This will assure easier opening and closing and will prevent rust and lessen wear. Wipe the blades now and then with an oil-moistened cloth to prevent rust- especially if you live in a damp climate or close to the ocean. If your blade should get wet, dry it thoroughly. If your knife comes into contact with salt water or any substance you are not certain about, you should rinse it immediately with tap water, dry it and apply a light coat of oil.
Do not store knives in their sheaths. The leather collects moisture and creates pits on the blade.
Check the locking notch of lockbacks regularly to ensure that it will work properly. Keep all sand and grit out of the knife. Keep the mechanisms clean. Remember to never rely on a folding knife to be permanently locked in position.
Do not use the cutting blade as a can opener, chisel, pry bar, screwdriver or for any heavy work for which your knife was not designed. Also, don't use the back of your knife as a hammer. It may break the springs, handles or pin.
Handles made of wood can be occasionally rubbed with furniture polish or oil. Brass can be polished with household brass polish.
Remember to keep your knife sharpened -- a dull blade can be more dangerous than a properly maintained one.
For more window tinting knives or cutters tools,please click here:http://www.TintingTool.com/knives-and-razor-blades/
2016-06-20 16:53 posted in Tinting Tips
Never Install on front windsheild. With the exception of visor strips, it is illegal to tint your front windsheild. To View the tinting laws in your area please Click Here.
There is a clear liner attached to the film to protect the adhesive. To discover which side is the liner side, use to small pieces of transparent tape to pull a corner of the film apart. You will find 2 layers, the clear layer is the protective layer.
It is best to install the film with the vehicle in a shaded, well lighted, wind and duct free inclosure between 40 and 90 degreed F; where the weather will not freeze for atleast 3 days.
It is best to clean the vehicle inside and out before installing the film to minimize contamination.
Read ALL of the intructions before beginning.
Apply the film on the inside of the windows only, never on the outside.
You can never use too much application fluid!
Creases cannot be removed. Handle film carefully and do not crease it.
It is best not to apply tint film, or let it dry, in direct sunlight.
Always use a sharp razor, never scissors, to cut or trim film.
Tint can be installed on factory defroster lines, but cannot be used on plexiglass, plastic or vinyl.
Window film actually makes rear defrosters work better, but do not scrape defroster lines with the razor when cleaning or preparing. Just squeegee carefully.
Do not use on thermal or double paned windows.
Buy window tint installation tools, please view our site:http://www.tintingtool.com/
2016-06-02 11:43 posted in Window Tinting
The first instance of window tinting as we know it stems from America around the time of World War II and the years following. One of the more popular tinting manufacturers were EZ Eye factory tint. You could find this tint sometimes on the ’40 Mercury Romango from Detroit, or later, the ’58 Chevy Impala.
If you couldn’t get the windows tinted from the factory, some people took a swing at tinting at home for the first time. However, this is before window film was invented, so they used spray-on tinting. The result was a dark and usually uneven tint, so when window film was invented in 1966, it changed the window-tinting game.
The film started off as “dye-based,” which had poor heat rejection, and would absorb heat into the vehicle, rather than reflect it back. It also had a tendency of turning purple and bubbly in the sun, and didn’t have a very long lifespan.
A second generation of window film emerged in the early nineties. This film was constructed of metal integrated with dye. This “hybrid” film contained dye to absorb heat and metallic particles to reflect the sun’s rays, and therefore heat. It approached 50% heat reduction. The major drawback with metallized films is interference with electronic devices like GPS and sometimes radio.
The newest edition to the window tinting industry is ceramic films. These are the top of the line. They last a lifetime or longer, reject heat and UV rays, and do not interfere with electronics. We have come a long way in the window tinting world, and are only coming up with new and exciting ways to improve upon our product!
So, buy window film,some tint tools, then start to tint your car by yourself!
2016-05-18 15:22 posted in About Squeegee
Why there are so many kinds of squeegee?Have you ever wondered this question or how to choose the correct one you’re your project needs? Here are some tips on how to choose the right squeegee for your style or a particular project:
Squeegee blades come in different shapes and it is very important to choose the right shape for the job to get the best result:
a, V-Shaped (single or double-bevel): This shape is used for printing on uneven or cylindrical-shaped substrates
b,Square (also called Straight Edge): The most often used by screen printers is square-edge squeegee blade. It works well for standard or regular ink applications
c,Round (or ball nose): The round blade is used for a heavy deposit when printing special-effects inks. The round shape of the blade passes more ink through the screen and is often used for printing gel or puff inks
A squeegee consists of two parts: the blade and the blade holder. It may seem like a simple design or unimportant, but the blade holder comes in different shapes and materials each designed for different functions.
For manual screen printing, for example, the holder essentially becomes the handle of the squeegee. It is important how the handle feels to the printer when holding the squeegee, especially after several hours of printing.
Wood, aluminum or plastic are the most popular materials used for handles and each of these materials have its fans. For example, some love the organic feel of the wooden handles and the warmth of wood. Conversely, fans of plastic or aluminum like their easy-to-clean properties. Squeegees with aluminum or metal holders are generally used with automatic printing machines, where the blades can be replaced.
Some handles that are designed to allow blade replacement so be sure to check how easily the replacement can be made. Some designs feature easy to undo clips while others have to be screwed in place for example.
Another consideration when choosing handles is the shape. Ergonomic handles are on the market today that help combat fatigue and stress-related, repetitive injuries. Handles also come in different heights, most commonly are 4- and 5-inch widths depending on whether you have large or small hands.
As a rule, squeegee blades are now made of polyurethane vs. rubber. Durometer is a measure of the squeegee blade’s hardness. A lower the value the softer the blade. For example:50-60 durometer indicates a soft squeegee;60-70 durometer is a medium-hard edge;70-80 durometer indicates a hard blade
Like the blade’s shape, the different durometers also determine the amount of ink that is deposited on the fabric. The soft blade deposits more ink than the hard blade. Here are some basic rules of thumb: For general projects, printers usually prefer a hardness of around 70-75 durometer;A 55 durometer (soft) blade would be good for printing gels and puff inks, as these types of ink require heavier deposits. A soft blade also may be used to lay down more ink on heavily textured fabrics;An 80 durometer blade is great for printing a fine, detailed print or four-color process prints
4. Composite Blades
To take a simple tool and make it even more useful, there are squeegees with composite blades. This means two or more blades of differing durometers can be either stacked or sandwiched together. For example, a 70/90/70 composite blade is made up of a hard blade wedged between two softer ones. The idea is that the hard blade supports the squeegee, whereas the softer blades still allow for a good amount of ink to be deposited.
In the end, printing preferences and job types determine whether the screen printer chooses a single or a composite blade.
We suggest you try the different squeegee blades and see if the high-tech ones are better suited to your printing style.
Lastly, it is important to determine the length of the squeegee needed for the screen. Many squeegees can be purchased by the inch. Be sure the screen’s width and design’s width are taken into account when choosing the right squeegee for each job.
2016-05-06 14:40 posted in About Squeegee
Of all the components of window tinting,squeegee is one of the most important tinting tools.
Squeegees are made from 3 basic types of materials: Rubber, Neoprene, and Polyurethane. The least expensive Squeegees available are those constructed of natural rubber. While commonly used in the education part of the screen printing industry, rubber tends to suffer from poor abrasion resistance and poor resistance to strong solvents. Neoprene, a synthetic rubber compound made from a chroline derivative of acetylene, is also a popular Squeegee material. Neoprene is slightly more expensive than natural rubber, and it offers better chemical and abrasion resistance.
Polyurethane, a syntethic plastic material, is often used to make Squeegee designed for extended use, and for automatic and semi-automatic equipment. While urethane is more expensive than rubber or neoprene, it offers a much better resistance to both physical and chemical abrasion. Most urethanes used in the screen printing industry are MDI based Polyester. The reason being the MDI urethanes offers the best abrasion resistance of any urethane on the market. Polyurethane Squeegees are the most popular of all Squeegees. They are cast in liquid form in open molds, close molds or centrifuges. The material is a thermoset plastic, and cures when exposed to heat for a period of time. The material is made in sheets or individual sections, and then cut to size for shipping. The most common sizes are the following: 3/8 x 2 for general Screen printing(graphics, textile, glass, electronics), 3/16 x 1 for bottle, cd, and high speed automatic presses.
Durometer:When selecting a Squeegee, the first task is to determine your desired durometer, or hardness. The durometer is the value that reflects the physical hardness of the Squeegee material. The Squeegee durometer values from 50A to 95A. This is measured by a durometer gauge, and measured based on standards established by ASTM procedures. (American Standard Testing materials) . For the sake of simplicity, we will call soft - 60A, medium - 70A, and 80A - a hard Squeegee, and 90A -extra hard. Plastics/Squeegees are measured in various scales of hardness. Shore A scale is the most widely used for measuring Squeegee material. The values are based on readings There are many different styles of durometer gauges available on the market. All of the durometer gauges on the market have a dial indicator with a small needle head that measures the hardness of the Squeegee. A durometer gauge is identical to a tension meter. Like a tension meter, a durometer gauge should be calibrated on a regular basis. (1 time per year). The small needle head penetrates into the material, and indicates the hardness of the rubber.